jeudi 31 juillet 2014

Cm2x2048-8500c7

My computer is old but still working like a champ.



I have a total of 4 sticks of Corsair model CM2X2048-8500C7. Totaling 8GB.



Can someone help me by telling me the the correct settings for my system (motherboard, etc)?





I've been reading but I get confused. I think I read that if it's more than one stick, the MHz is not 1066, but 800, etc. I built my computer from scratch, but I have no idea about timings and voltages and so on.



Thank you very much.




New K70's

Does anyone with the new version -- specifically the Cherry MX Brown version -- of the K70 have the LED issue?



I have been thinking of getting one, but I don't want to buy one if the LED's still aren't fixed.



Any help is appreciated.




Latest Bios Update

Hello everyone. Just updated my Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0 Bios from v0601 to latest v2501, PC booted up into bios and I pressed F5 to load optimized defaults then pressed F10 to save configuration. When Pc booted up again pc boots up into Bios again. When I press not to save configuration pc boots up normally into window and no problems everything works. Maybe there's something in the bios I need to do. For now still booting up into bios and when I press not to save configuration normal boot up and everything is fine. Would like to get a normal boot up. Can someone please help. Thank you so much.




CPU reading 50 Celsius in BIOS

Hi just want some advice does this sound right should the CPU be showing 50 Celsius at the BIOS with a H80i with a i7 4790k no overclock and the OS has not been installed yet




solved - H100i noise

It's simple just remove the Corsair link software. It does not add anything that I could tell except to make your fans louder.




Charging the Voyager Air 2

Recharging the battery in the Voyager Air 2 with the USB cable can be complicated.



The USB connection provides just 0.5 amps of current, which can take as long as 12 hours (or more) to fully recharge the (large) 6200 mAh battery.



Every device with a Li-Ion battery is required to include safety circuitry to prevent overcharging, and that overcharging safety timeout is six hours. In order to resume charging if you hit that six hour limit you need to unplug and replug the cable - effectively starting another "charging session."



The end result is that in some cases, with a fully discharged battery, you may need to unplug/replug after six hours, and again after another six hours.



For right now, we are working to get the price of the optional power adapter kit (part number CMFAIR-PWRKIT-A) - which includes a wall adapter with international plugs and 2A car adapter - as low as possible. We are also investigating other options.




Registration May Be Fixed but RMA Not?

Tried to request an RMA yesterday afternoon and the system kept erroring: "Please Choose Part Number"; when the part number had been entered. Tried multiple times with different numbers, as there were two products. A very helpful CS Representative on the phone said to click the magnifying glass icon a second time after entering the number. No difference. This was with FF. Tried also with IE. Couldn't login, so don't know if it would have worked.



We handled the RMA over the phone.




Corsair SP2500 Control Pod not working (faulty) - new out of box

Hi.. Purchased a corsair sp2500 on sunday(28/07/2014) and received it on wednesday(30/07/2014)... i did all the setup.. and when i turned on the speaker the control pod showed the corsair logo like it should but instead of showing the volume level it went totally RED for 2 seconds, then after GREEN, BLUE, WHITE, and BLANK. following that sequence over and over. The speakers doesn't work at all.



Please advice on what i could do ...........




AX 860 - Quality Product?

I've had the AX 860 installed for just over a year and it has already packed up. Most frustratingly it also took out my hard drives with all my data.



Ironically I originally decided to pony up for an expensive but reliable PSU to prevent exactly that from happening! Afterall, the warranty says 7 years! I even went the extra step of protecting my PC with a quality UPS.



So even with a clean mains power supply and a 'premium' AX 860 PSU disaster still struck! Now was it just really really really bad luck getting a duff AX 860, or just a poor decision? Should I bother with an RMA, or should I be looking for other more reliable products? Any suggestions? PSU gurus, is this a common problem with this product?




Lost fan control w/h100i after update and incorrect cpu temp

I'd been happily using link2 version 2.3.something from ~12-13 months ago. However the power readings from my AX860i were way off so i finally updated link (measures power much more accurately now, yay!)

I have 4 PWM fans connected to the H100i that i previously had no problem controlling, that are now grouped together that i seemingly have no control over.

Similarly the FX-8350 temp is clearly not reading the correct pin (comparing to 3-4 other sensor monitor programs).



I have included before and after screenshots to illustrate the problem.



I'm not too fussed about the CPU temp issue, as i go by the h100i liquid/rad temp anyway for temp monitoring, but having control over the rad fans would be desired :[pouts:







any ideas?




Attached Images









File Type: png CASE 2.PNG (671.9 KB)
File Type: jpg 1241.jpg (225.5 KB)






H60 1.Generation mit Sockel 1150

Hallo, bin von AMD auf Intel i5 4690k umgestiegen.



Wollte meine H60 weiternutzen, da die den AMD auch bei Übertaktung und hoher Last auf erträgliche Temperaturen gehalten hat.



Leider passen die Intel Adapter nicht mehr.

Beim dem Metallkreuz stehen zwei Schrauben vom Motherboardsockel an.

Das war kein Problem, habe mit einer Feile die Aussparungen an das Metallkreuz angebracht.



Doch beim Verschrauben des Kühlers musste ich festellen, das dieser nicht an die CPU gepresst wird. Zu sehen, weil sich die Wäremleitpaste nicht auf der Kühlerunterseite abzeichnet.



Gibt es für die H60 1.Gen passende Adapter für Sockel 1150 ?




Sp2500: Speaker sensitivity values?

Hi All

I am trying to find the sensitivity rating of Corsair SP2500 speakers.The product site or reviews didn't have it.Can anyone help?i have heard higher the sensitivity, better it is.



Thanks!




Always remember to erase your EXIF data!

Don't know what that means? EXIF data is shit that gets stores on your flicks with info like what kind of camera you used, but more importantly YOUR GPS COORDINATES. Make sure to delete that shit before posting here. Even though you might post through a proxy, if your dumb ass forgot to do this, your yard's gonna get busted son!



A couple of dumbasses around here forgot to erase EXIF on their iPhones, I'm not gonna say who but fix up!



Don't know how to do this? Google for "erase exif data for windows/mac/atari/gameboy" and get cracking.




Voyager Air now working again :(

Hi all,



I fixed my Voyager Air a few weeks ago with the help of the wonderful Bill from Corsair.



Switched it on a couple of days ago and its not working again...



In essence, although I can see the IP address of the drive I can't connect to it.



I've also tried from the app on several different devices, it connects and flashes the full options page then after half a second or so defaults to a page with only three options - 'downloads', 'settings' and 'now playing'.



If I click settings, it shows drive: network status: disconnected. App version 2.1.0.



I've formatted the drive but can't get it going.



Any ideas? We're away on vacation this weekend in the motorhome- the event that I bought the damn thing for- and would really like to get it working!!




I'll never buy Corsair again

After a 4GB DDR3 module had intermittent failures I RMA returned it.

Corsair sent a single rank module (high density chips) replacement which wouldn't work.

They told me the chip market is dynamic and they didn't know whether the factory was using high or low density chips.



What is crackers is that they use the same part number for both types.



They said I would get low density, dual rank if I returned the module with another, perfectly OK 4GB module and they send me 2 x 4GB dual rank replacements.



They arrived today.

Exactly the same single rank modules as before.



Corsair is a useless company.

I'm now looking at how to issue a Small Claims Court summons against their company in the Netherlands.



Don't buy Corsair.




Corsair K95 RGB Key Compatible with K90?

Im currently searching for Keys for the K90.

Now the question is do the Keys of the K95 which is about to be released fit on the old k90?




GS800 passes the paper clip test but doesn't powe my system

I was using a Corsair GS800 PSU. My computer suddenly stopped starting. First I thought it may be a motherboard issue, and checked it with a different power supply and it worked fine. I tried the paperclip test as suggested by the forum members (




) and found that my PSU turns on (it lights up and the fan spins) and the load fan spins too. But it refuses to work once its connected to my motherboard. It can't be a fault with the motherboard because it is working with a different PSU. Any suggestion?



P.S. The power supply still have 2 years and 6 months of warranty remaining.




HS1 - Microphone stopped working

Hello,



I have a headset from Corsair HS1 for about 2 years. Everything was fine untill about a week ago when the mic stopped working. As long as the volume controlls were blinking the mic was working. Now they have stopped and my friends hear only some noise while im plugging ang unplugging the headsets. I love that piece of gaming equipment so i would be very sad if that defect would mean the end of it...



Any ideas that can help?




Vengeance 1500 v2 causing BSoDs

So i've narrowed down my issue to the headset.



Basically what's been happening is that Windows 8.1 will go into a stall upon shutting down... (This is after signing out, and all programs are closed)

After about 10 minutes of "shutting down" I get a BSoD with the error "DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE"



I had no idea what was going on and was scratching my head until I noticed another issue.

Every morning when I had been signing on my computer to get started for work, I noticed that when I plugged my Vengeance 1500 in, it would get power, but would not turn on. (Lights on the volume control would be pink signalling power, not blue signalling that it was fully functioning). It would require me to reboot my computer and since I wasn't able to shutdown fully, I had to hard-reset the machine (Hold the power button).



Today I figured i would shut the machine down (hard) then reboot it and shut it off without EVER plugging in the headset.... Lo and behold it worked. I have no idea what's happening. Best thing I can see is that the system does not recognize when I "pull the plug" on the headset to take it out at the end of the day.



Does anyone here have any idea? I can't exactly "Eject" the headset.

Could it be an issue with the headset hardware?





Edit: i have noticed that when I have the headset only plugged in for a few minutes, the system will recognize when I pull the plug.




mercredi 30 juillet 2014

Neutron 240GB running @75C

I have a Neutron 240GB drive that I purchased two years ago. Recently, I've had a problem with video games hard freezing my system and requiring a reboot after about 1/2 to one hour of play. I ran SpeedFan and it is showing that my GPU and CPU temps, while running hot, are within specifications. However, the temp reported for the SSD varies between 72-75C after the reboot. I have confirmed the SSD temp by checking it in the Corsair SSD Toolbox and the temps are within one degree C of each other.



According the specs on Newegg the operating temperature for my SSD is between 0C and 70C. Could the excessive heat from the SSD be causing my system to freeze and if so what is the remedy? I've opened my laptop up and I see no obvious problem such as excessive dust or something blocking the vent.



edit: I should add that I have looked at all the SMART attributes for the drive in the Toolbox and everything appears fine except for the temperature.




K90 F1 function key and M2 macro profile key not working.

Recently discovered that my F1 and M2 macro key is not working. Tried long pressing, force pressing (not that much), nothing happens. Already tried reinstalling software and flashing firmware that I downloaded from product page while kb is connected to a usb 2.0 port. What should I do next?




K70 and M95 Freezing Issues

I have had my K70 and M95 for a few months now, and have been quite pleased with them, but recently I have had an issue where both my mouse and keyboard freeze. They are stuck in whatever key command is being executed. Sometimes they unfreeze in a couple of seconds, but ever once in a while, both loose their lights, and appear to reset. I have tried updating firmware a number of times, and have tried changing various USB ports in the back of the computer. There seems to be no correlation to what I am doing when it freezes, or how often. Please help!




Corsair Force3 60GB problem

Chronology:



The Force3 60GB (firmware 5.05 latest) is my Win7 boot drive in laptop. Yesterday I got intensive BSOD, so I decided to restore from TI image backup. The image backup was verified & restored successfully without error, but the SSD failed to boot, giving me a black screen with blinking cursor on the top left corner. I know the image is fine because I've used it several times.



I decided to secure erase the drive in my desktop comp. The desktop has Force3 120GB (Firmware 5.07) as the boot drive with Intel SSD 320 80GB + 3 HDD. I tried to secure wipe the 60GB SSD with Corsair Tool Box 1.1, but it gave me BSOD as soon as I started.



BSOD message : "A problem has been detected...bla bla bla. MULTIPLE_IRP_COMPLETE_REQUESTS. STOP: 0x00000044".



Tried to secure erase with Parted Magic, and it went through (after lots of SSD being Frozen message).

I booted to Windows (desktop comp). When I tried to initialize the disk with Disk Management, it gave me BSOD again : "MULTIPLE_IRP_COMPLETE_REQUESTS. STOP: 0x00000044".



Booted into Parted Magic, initialized the drive & partitioned the drive. No problem.

Booted back to Windows / Disk Management, I could see the new created partition. Strangely, when I tried to delete the partition, the partition remained intact as if nothing happened. Win7 or Disk Management didn't give me any error. Rescan drives in Disk Mgt & reboot, the deleted partition is still there !!!. Using Diskpart to delete partition, same problem. No error. Diskpart said "Partition deleted", but it is still there in Disk Management & even after reboot.



Another secure-erasing with PMagic --> initiliaze the disk by Win7 Disk Management --> BSOD.

Going back to PMagic to initialize the drive, no problem. Booted back to Win7 Disk management & tried to create Simple Volume --> when started to format --> same BSOD.



Checking Win7 integrity--> no problem.

I tried my brother's laptop through ESATA connection & retried to create partition in Disk Management ---> BSOD.

Going back to PMagic & create partition.

Going back to my bro's laptop, and tried to delete partition (experiment), SAME PROBLEM ---> Dsk Mgt gave me no error, but the partition is still there !!! Tried Diskpart --> same problem.

Going back to PMagic to delete partition --> successful.

Going back to bro's laptop & tried to create partition from Un-allocated space --> NO partition created, but Dsk Mgt gave me no error message.

Trying an empty HDD , and the same computers do not have problem creating & deleting partition of other disk (I've tried with HDD).



Looking like a totally dead SSD, doesn't it ?

Not yet.



Going back to PMagic & created partition there.

This time I retried another TI restore to the created partition & successful. It finally booted.

Smart Data is good. Everything seems normal.



What is going on with this SSD ???

Is it dying on me ? Why suddenlly Win7 Disk Mgt suddenly can not do anything to it anymore ??? Not even Corsair's Own Secure Wipe. Only Pmagic can.



My drive is exactly 3 years old next week.

If this drive has problem, I definitely has to RMA it asap (like this very week !!!).





Additional note:

SSD is connected to the primary Intel controller of Biostar Z68 board (AHCI)

Laptop is HM55 chipset (prinary intel controller) (AHCI)




Single Rail vs. Multi-Rail Power Supplies

I honestly am not able to understand the benefits that would be realized by implementing a multi-rail power supply over that of a single rail design of identical power output levels.



I can possibly see some downsides such as possibly parts count and circuit design complexity going up which, to me, would lead to less reliability. My thoughts also extend to those power supply designs that can, via firmware, be reconfigured to operate in a single rail mode. Also, if the individual rails couldn't be reconfigured into a single rail, you could run the risk of overloading one of the rails.



Please help me understand what the benefits of a multi-rail system are.



Thanks in advance!




New Corsair Link Commander Mini

Christmas in July? We had a teaser back in January when we attended CES and rumors were flying around about a new Commander.



Ta da!



http://ift.tt/1oMKvsA



You might be asking, when will it be released? Great question! Stay tuned. :laughing:




Why is the 650D more expensive than the 750D?

:confused:




Are this good?

helo my friends.I have a cuestion :roll:



is this pefect? the psu is a RM650



in idle







in charge









thanks ;):




Corsair AW860i + NZXT Kraken x61

I have an Corsair AW860i and an NZXT Kraken x61.



They both have USB headers that are plugged into the motherboard.



I want to use Corsair Link to control the PSU and the CAM software to control the cooler.



It seems like the Corsair Link software takes over the USB from the x61 (as well as the PSU). Is there a way to stop the Link software from taking over the Kraken x61 USB input data? When it takes it over, the CAM software cannot talk/control the Kraken x61 cooler.




760T front panel

So yesterday the power LED on my 760T stopped working. I tried to take the front panel off to check how to replace the LED or the I/O panel.

However, the panel doesn't come off, because the top left corner is stuck and doesnt move at all. I already checked all the latches holding the panel in place and I can't find any screws. Am I missing something (like having to remove the optical drives first)?





Edit: Turns out I had to remove the optical drive first.




M45 scroll wheel slightly loose

Hey everyone,

after using the M45 for two days, I noticed that the mouse wheel is a little loose.

It can be moved "horizontically" a little bit and the noise it makes when I move it is louder than a middle click.

Anyone experiencing the same or is it definitely a production error?




Where can I find the updated user manual ?

In a post dated 07-01-2014 by BillRathbone I read that an updated user manual is available. I cannot find it however on the Corsair website under Downloads. Am I overlooking it or am I searching in the wrong place ?




Does anyone actually have Link working?!

Guys, does anyone actually have Corsair Link working properly on Window 7 64-bit and using the CL Commander and Cooling Node such that their fans automatically adhere to a custom curve on system startup without any user intervention such as manually starting the CL console?



I have spent the last several hours documenting across several pages tests and results, and the closest I can get is CL v26.5214 with Cooling Node v1.2.5 with the fans only adhering to the my custom curve once I've manually started the CL console.



Someone, please tell me that you have it working completely on it's own and how you did it.




Keycap issue, K70

Hello,



I apologise if there is a post on this issue but as I'm not even sure what to call the issue it made it dificult to search.



I just received the K70 gunmetal keyboard, and while I am very happy with it generally so far there is an issue with the keycaps, there appears to be missing black sections on numerous keys which is more obvious the darker the room and the brighter the LED’s.















Now I have found similar pictures on via google but none of the posts seems to mention it as an problem, I guess to some it’s a non-issue but it does bother me slightly.



My questions is whether this is just a ‘how it comes’ issue, as that would put me off keeping it or if this is a fault and I should get a replacement.



Thanks,




M95 mouse automatic SW profile switch doesn't work

Hello,



I bought M95 mouse and I am using it in SW mode. I have adjusted my default mouse profile, and then I did a new profile for Photoshop. I add photoshop.exe file to it, because I wanted different setup for my work in photoshop.



Now. If I boot into windows, I have the default profile - OK.

Then I run photoshop, and the mouse automatically switch to photoshop profile - OK.

Bu then, when I leave the photoshop, doesn't matter if I change windows or close the app, the mouse is stuck in photoshop profile. - NOT OK



How can I manage, if possible, to bring the mouse automatically into default profile then? I tried add explorer.exe to the default profile, but that didn't work.



Using win 7 64bit, newest profile and firmware.



Thank you very much




Corsair AX750 died and killed my pc

Hello,



I bought a Corsair AX750 in a store in the Netherlands.

It died within 1 year. I heard some big bangs. The store replaced it.

Pc working fine after replacement.



Few months later the new AX750 died again. This time there were no bangs.



I took the PSU to the store, and they tested it. While they were testing, it killed their testsystem too.

So we knew it was defective.



Then they replaced the AX750 for a RM850.

But already it killed my CPU (i7 2600k), Motherboard, and GPU.



I tried to get my killed parts replaced by the store, but they would not do it.

I only got a new PSU (Corsair RM850)



My question is, can i get compensation?



I bought this PSU because it should have all kinds of protections and has 7 years warrenty!



Also i read on the internet that alot of people have problems with this PSU.



Thanks in advance!



greetings,

Benjamin :D:




SP 2500 Died??

Hello,i got a problem with my SP 2500 speakers,after coming back from work i turn them on as usual but there is no power at all,looks like they are dead,got only 3 more days warranty so i already filled RMA,please take a look at ticket number 6500143.Thanks




RMA # is 6499121

Hab RMA beantragt. Letzter Stand vom 27.07 mir soll durch UPS ein Shipping Label zugesand per e-Mail werden ... Bis heute noch keins erhalten (Spamfach ist leer und wird stündlich überprüft) :mad:




Intel Z97 DRAM voltage

Hello and thanks in advance for your help. I have the Dominator GT 8 gig kit CMT8GX3M2A2000C9 and would like to know if this will work well with the new Intel Z97 chipset-these are 1.5 volt modules and I haven't found any specifics about what the Z97 boards requirements are. in terms of DDR3 voltage.

Thanks......Chuck




Well, it finally happened; my trusty H100i is Biting the Dust

For months, while reading all of these posts about the Hydro Series having this problem or that, everything was running fine here; two H80i's and one H100i. (Grinding fans notwithstanding—I'll deal with that when things get sorted out on Corsair's end.) Yesterday, however, I came back into the studio and noted that the 650D case fans were on max, as if the system were under load. Checking, nothing is tasking the system and it should have even gone to sleep by this time. Looking at the temps, the CPU cores are at 59C; at idle. The other two systems are happily idling at 35C. Hmmm.



Checked the tubes and the lower one was warm. Upper was cool. Only warm section of the radiator is where the tubes attach. The rest of it is cool. Over time, the temps on the 3930k rose to 70C, then 75C. Tried maneuvering the case in different orientations to expel air perhaps trapped in the water block; causing cavitation and flow loss. No joy. Shut it down.



Upon reboot, after having let it sit to cool, the temp protection alarm triggered, preventing boot, and required an F1 to get into the BIOS monitor. Once in, the CPU is at 71C and rising. Once it got to 80C, after about ten minutes, I shut it down again.



Nest day I removed the unit to replace the stock TIM with Arctic 5, using the methods recommended by Arctic Silver; as I always do—figuring that this was a good first debugging step, as the symptoms indicated that, among other things, perhaps the TIM contact had failed.



Upon inspection, I see that the "shrouds", for lack of a better term, that cap the ends of the two tubes at each end have cracked and separated. I presume that these are to secure the tubes onto the hose barbs, much in the function of shrink tubing. Removed all four of them, because they were useless; replicating that function with narrow width tie-wraps applied at the valley between each barb; three on each connection. There is no evidence of leakage but, with the shrouds having failed, perhaps air has entered the system. Tipping and gently oscillating the H100i does not produce any liquid sound. The question does arise, as it is a possible cause of that which has been observed, below.



Once the TIM cleaning and replacement was complete and the unit returned to the 650D, I booted it up; hopeful to see a 39C idle. No joy. Started at 59C and slowly rose to 71C; same as before.



Observations:

  • Pump RPM is a bit high at 2,390.

  • CPU temperature slowly rises, doesn't spike.

  • Lower tube (output from water block) slowly becomes very hot; advancing along its length.

  • Upper tube (input to water block) remains cool.

  • Radiator away from tank and tube connections is cool.


Indications are that coolant flow is impeded. When it gets to the radiator, the energy is bled off but doesn't get back down to the water block fast enough.



This leads me to conclude:

  • The impeller has become disassociated from the drive shaft.

  • There is a blockage of some sort in one of the tubes.

  • Coolant volume no longer fills the system to the recommended level.


ALL of these would result in elevated pump RPM and slow heat soak in the output tube. Because no work is being performed moving the liquid, whether the system is full or not, it's operating in partial convective mode; barely keeping the CPU from frying completely.



Not happy. This is my main workstation and I'm down until this gets replaced.




mardi 29 juillet 2014

Trouble installing TX750w v2 in Carbide 500R Case

I'd like to install my TX750W V2 power supply with the fan down in the Carbide 500R case, but the screw holes aren't aligning. If I turn it with the fan up, the holes align (well, 3 of them do either way), but not the other. I've read some threads about this psu, but haven't seen one addressing this screw hole alignment.



I tried paring down the psu standoffs (they're soft) and filing down the metal ones, but no luck. Does anyone have any suggestions?



I don't know if it makes a difference, but I purchased everything in early 2012 & only now able to build. Was there some issue with that case & psu back then?



Thank you!




Beeping when clicking, screeching noise, and beeping headset

My headset is a Corsair 1500 recently I have noticed I hear beeping when typing when clicking or just even on idle I hear some beeping. My drivers are updated and I have tried using all USB ports. I disabled line and mic in levels and it just lowered the white noise. Speaking of white noise I also have white noise that is annoying. Also I got this headset a year ago and I don't have a warranty.




upgrade kit H110

is there an upgrade kit for the H110 for the push pull config :confused:? or will the H100I kit work:confused:




Corsair 250D Case Power/Reset Cable/Button Not Working!

Just built a new Mini-ITX build using the Corsair 250D case.



When I plug in the header pins for "POWER SW" and "RESET SW", they simply don't work.



I had to turn on the computer by closing the circuit w/ the tip of a screwdriver! :mad:



The case was bought brand new from Amazon.



Is there an easy way to replace the switch/cable in order to use the rig properly?



I really don't want to have to tear every thing down to return the case because of a simple Power/Reset cable/header. I will if I have to, however.



Can Corsair send a replacement switch/cable for me to easily install?



Please help!




PSU RM650W click sound?

Is normal this? I power on my pc and listen

One click.and i shut down my pc i listen other click



Are this clicks normal?



Thanks




CORSAIR firmware FIX?

Hi when will there be a firmware fix to replace the broken one that is 2.6.5214 after installing the latest software it updates the firmware then it is unable to see the fans/pump ect we cant even downgrade it to get it back.




ForceGT F60/F120 performance issues

Hello,



Problem happens on my new platform i7-4770k + Z87 Extreme 4. After Corsair has replaced my last drives (which were the oldest Force series) I've got back new Force GT drives.



So I did a fresh Win7 x64 installation, installed all the drivers that came from ASRock on their cd, installed all windows updates and stuff like this.



After all of these, I've started ATTO to see how my drives are perfoming, and this is what I saw:







The performance for samples below 128kb seems bad - shouldn't the drives be much faster there?



What I did and did not help:

- updated to the latest RST and INF drivers

- tried to mess with caching policies in drives settings

- in BIOS set the drive types to ssd



I have no idea what can I do more, any ideas?



Thanks.




Poor cooling performance with H100i and i7-4790K

Hi All,



Just wondering if anyone can help me.



I've recently built a new gaming rig using the following components:



ASUS Z97 Deluxe

i7-4790K

H100i cooler

AX860i PSU

Fractal Design R4

Club3D R9 290 Royal Ace





For cooling, I've got the stock Fractal Design fans in the rear and bottom of the case.

Rear fan is extracting. Bottom fan in blowing air upwards at graphics card.



In the front, I've got 2 x 140mm Noctua NF-A14 PWMs.

On the H100i, I've got 2 x Noctua NF-F12 PWMs in push configuration.



All fans are being controlled from motherboard headers, with appropriate settings for DC/PWM in BIOS.



I gave up on having the H100i control it's fans, as the CorsairLink software is so flaky. In the latest version, it won't even recognise that the 860i is connected. It should be noted that the temperatures were worse with the stock Corsair fans controlled by the H100i.



Right now, I've got no overclocks running, and I'm seeing much higher than expected CPU temperatures. Ambient temperature is 22 degrees C.



At idle, CPU cores (as read by RealTemp v3.70) are reading 34, 32, 33, 33 degrees C.

Under load with Prime95 (small FFT), temperatures reach 75, 73, 74, 69 degrees C.



Based on figures I've seen on the forum here, and elsewhere I was expecting temps at least 10 degrees C cooler.



When I attempted a 4.6GHz auto overclock using Ai Suite 3, then CPU temps on all but one core reached Tj Max (100 degrees C). Not good!



Again, some of this could be down to the way that the overclock is being performed, and the higher than needed voltage.



However, others are reporting much lower temperatures using the same overclock mechanism (see Temps running Prime95).



I've removed the cooling block, cleaned both CPU and block with Arctic Silver cleaner and finisher, tinted both components, and then used Arctic Silver 5 when putting it all back together. Temperatures did drop a degree or so, but nothing major.



Something I did notice is that it's seems almost impossible to clamp down the cooling block, such that you can't move it around on top of the CPU. I've checked the backplate, and it is in the correct orientation, which I've seen mentioned as a possible cause. It seems to me that the rubber gromits on the backplate are not thick enough to allow a firm clamp down (I've noticed some folks say to use additional rubber washers). If I can't get a good thermal interface with the H100i, then I'm thinking of going with air cooling instead (won't mention the make and model I'm thinking of, as I don't think that's allowed here.).



Would be interested to know what folks think, as I'm rapidly running out of patience with Corsair. Current estimate (from support ticket) for fixing CorsairLink issues is 1-2 months, and they wouldn't offer any opinion on the poor cooling issue described above.



Any help would be much appreciated.



Thanks,



Andy.




Why does Corsair Link suck so much?

My CorsairLink kept crashing so I updated it from 2.2 to 2.6.



New features of 2.6?



- No more ability to monitor or restart the service in case it freezes (which it does constantly)



- No more ability to monitor CPU temperature



- No more ability to minimize CorsairLink



I didn't update my version to have significantly less functionality than the version I was already using...



Easily the worst software I've used in my life...shudder to think it's controlling the cooling on my CPU! :mad:




PC doesn't start up with new Corsair AX860!

Hello folks, recently I bought a new PSU for my rig, I was using an AX850 and now AX860. The problem is that I can't get the PC to start up, the motherboard green LED shine but when I press the power button in my 350D nothing happens!



I took some pictures so you can help me see if I'm missing a cable to connect or something else.



Here you can see 24pin motherboard, 8pin CPU, and all SATAs (SSD and HD) connected (sorry for the dirt, I was waiting the new PSU to clean the case and stuff):







And here is the AC Power cable connected and also the ON interruptor on the PSU (''I'' position):







And finally the cables connected on the PSU itself, everything connected where it is suppose to be connected:







I really don't know what I'm missing, the PSU isn't faulty I can confirm for sure, because this is my second try to make it start up without sucessful, the first I received the PSU I thought it was faulty, so I returned to the store where I bought from and they tested, recorded a video and everything working without problems, so they returned the PSU to me and again I'm with this same problem.



If anyone can help I would be glad, sorry for my bad english.



Thanks!




Issues with CMX4GX3M2A1600C9 upgraded RAM

Since adding more RAM to my system it has become unstable, but I'm not sure why and how to solve the problem.



Specs of the system are:




  • Motherboard - Gigabyte GA-H55M-UD2H

  • CPU - Intel Core i3-530 @ 2.93GHz (Overclocked to 4.20GHz)

  • Graphics Card - ATI Radeon HD 5770 CuCore 1024MB GDDR5

  • RAM - Corsair XMS3 8GB (4x2GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C9 1600MHz CMX4GX3M2A1600C9

  • OS - Windows 7 Professional 64-bit SP1






The system had been running fine until 6 months ago, when I upgraded from 4GB RAM (2x2gb) to 8GB (4x2gb), I made sure to match the RAM, although the version number was different.



Since then I started getting more and more BSODs with different error codes, almost all of them memory related. Then finally the system got stuck in a boot cycle without displaying the POST screen. I tested the other components & they all passed, so it came down to the MB or the RAM.



It booted into windows with the original sticks of RAM (individually & together). I then tried it with just 1 of the new sticks, which got stuck loading windows. It did not boot with all 4 sticks.



I flashed the BIOS to f11 which was supposed to improve memory compatibility & loaded optimized defaults. This disabled the processor overclock and the XMP, making the memory run at 1333Mhz, 1.5v. Since then it has booted up and loaded windows with every combination of the RAM sticks I tried. I tested each stick of RAM with Memtest86+ and they all passed, so I tested each stick individually in each slot on the motherboard in turn. Again they all passed.



The system has worked fine ever since. I would now like to reinstate the overclock and if possible get the memory to run at 1600Mhz. Since I don't know what was causing the problem to begin with, I don't know how to differentiate between the original problem and the settings not being quite right. Should I be changing memory settings after enabling XMP, or are the defaults stable?



My Theories

The original RAM was ver3.2 and the new RAM is ver8.16. I have read that the MB will not work with RAM over 256MX8 IC. However the RAM that the system came with was 512Mx8 IC to start with and that seemed to work fine until I installed the two new sticks. The new RAM has an IC of 256Mx8 which I found here. I'm not sure if I understand this, so feel free to correct me. Would my problems be due to the IC values differing / being over what the MB can handle?



I also have a CPUz report from before loading optimised defaults that shows that the Min tRFC timings differ between the original RAM and the new RAM. I can link to this report if it helps. The original is at 110.00ns and the new ones are at 160.00ns. Everything else is the same. Would this cause BSODs?




Static shock on 300R front USB ports

When a USB plug touches the front USB ports there is a static discharge and the system reboots.

Is this a USB grounding issue?

The motherboard is a Gryphon Z87

Power supply is an RM550




Triple channel Kit in a dual channel board

I had 12gb of triple channel ram in my x58 Two 3x2 gb kits bought separately. Worked like a CHARM.

Tried to use 4 of those dimms in this board (Z97 Classified ) and they will simply not work at spec speeds or timings. So bad that if I try to run them at 1600 the machine goes into a power up loop and the code says no memory installed ( 55 )



4 dimms run FINE at 1333 and 1.49v and they are in Dual mode



So I am stuck with 1333 ram Until I spend a few hundred dollars on dual channel and EAT 12gb of this stuff ( wasn't cheap!)



I have been told that they would work at the correct timings but I don't know how to figure which ones to set.



Crucial says the MIGHT work but they do no guarantee that triple channel kits will work on dual....



HELLLLLP!!!!




Asus Z9PE Case

Hello Guys



Have a cabinet that can install the Asus Z9PE-D8 WS? EEB Form Factor



I read the specifications and not find any compatible cabinet, despite having seen some videos on youtube where this motherboard installed into a case from corsair appears.



thks!




WORST RMA service in any company I've dealt with

I've been told so many stories now about my keyboard replacement, it makes my head spin. I was given 3 different back order dates, and each time it came and gone, my name wasn't on the list to get a replacement even though I was told I was added. The next support person tries to make up excuses for the previous persons lies. My total RMA process now is going to take over a month because of all this BS.





Corsair, get your act together!




Help me pls

Dear Admin,

I'm Thu, i write this thread to ask for help from Corsair's technicians. My store had a customer, he bought a keyboard(k40) about one week ago. After that he repeatedly asked warranty for reasons keyboard damaged. To make my customer feel happy i'm agree to help him get a new keyboard 2 times in a row but now it's 3rd times he ask me for new one with the same reason. I can't believe this thing, i'm always test my keyboard before give it to my customer. Why the ... it always get damage when he back to his home. Right now I think he used the 12 volt power on the keyboard to make it damaged. You guys can teach me how to test my keyboard got damaged by the 12 volt power or not ? I really appreciate if you agree to help me.



Pls contact me via email: thudn09@gmail.com

thank you so much




Corsair 760T Problems

Hi Everyone,

Just a couple of questions and things that really bother be about this case and wondering how they can be resolved.

So I just did my build and god dayyum this case is beautiful but there are some little things that kinda annoy me, firstly the biggest thing I was sad about was that the gorgeous side panel was scratched and that kinda let me down as that is the "Big" thing about this case and what makes it so beautiful.

The Second issue is that the actual side panel is a bit leaning down, like I can see that there is a gap between the side panel and the top of the case, and what really bothers me is that its perfect where the hinges are but the gap starts getting more opened as you look down and that to me is quite annoying and I have no idea what to do about that

And lastly this is a pretty small thing but as soon as a got the case and was gonna install a 3.5" drive with those slidy things, as soon as a I pulled it out it just straight away broke and it hasn't happened with any other one.



So if someone could help me and tell me what to do about all this or someone from Corsair read this and help me, that would be great.



Kind Regards,

Utkarsh Anand




Order still on hold after five days. UK customer.

Order #1400100518 (placed on 24 July 2014 08:04:17 PDT)



I have no idea how to place a ticket as the item isn't listed in the drop down boxes. I live in the UK and cannot find a UK call number. How the hell does anyone outside the US contact Corsair. I paid £16 up front via PP for Eight screws !!! Now as far as I can see I have to pay for a long distance call to check what is going on with my order :mad: Very disappointed in Corsairs lack of customer care.



Regards.



fubar2niner




DIY Corsair Case Mod: Corsair 350 / 900 Front Air Intake Grill





This is DIY Case Mod Guide for modifying your Corsair 350 & 900D Front Air Intake Grill to help improve airflow to your Liquid or Aircooled PC system



Tools & Supplies:



Modder's Mesh, Round Sheet,http://ift.tt/1tn8sJQ







In Order of Usage



1. Ruler or Measuring Combination Square,

http://ift.tt/1pANEIn



*2. Pen & Black Marker,

http://ift.tt/1tn8q4F



3. Phillips Screw Driver,

http://ift.tt/1tn8q4H



4. 3" Painter's Masking Tape,

http://ift.tt/1tn8sJY



5. Safety Glasses,

http://ift.tt/1pANEYF



6. Rotary Tool,

http://ift.tt/1pANEYK



7. Rotary*1.5" Cutting Wheel,http://ift.tt/1pANGQy



8. Jigsaw Power Tool,

http://ift.tt/1tn8qlb



9. 18 TPI bi-metal Jigsaw blade,

http://ift.tt/1tn8t0p



10. Hand File,

http://ift.tt/1tn8t0r



11. Blue Painter's Tape, 1" wide,

http://ift.tt/1tn8qll



12. ScotchWeld DP-190,

http://ift.tt/1tn8qlp



(Optional) 3M Applicator Gun EPX Plus II and mixing tip, for ScotchWeld,

http://ift.tt/1tn8t0v



13. Disposable Latex Rubber Glove, (for applying DP190 into mesh)*http://ift.tt/1pANHnk



14. Cloth or Rag,

http://ift.tt/1pANHUo



15. Modeler or Xacto Knife,

http://ift.tt/1pANHUs



16. Red Scotchbrite,http://ift.tt/1pANHUu



17. Filtered Respirator Mask,

http://ift.tt/1pANHUz



18. SEM Self Etching Primer, Black,

http://ift.tt/1pANHUD



19. Krylon "Rust Tough" Semi-Flat Black Enamel (or Plastikote "Engine" Enamel),*]http://ift.tt/1pANIaR







Corsair Factory Front Bezel Plate.







Corsair gives you 3/16" gap around the plate from the factory for airflow. This modification will be huge improvement for cooling your system.







The front plate pulls off without any effort. It's removed for accessing and cleaning the Corsair 900D's three 120mm front cooling fans and filter.



You have option to remove the Four plastic mounting pegs, or leave them on throughout the entire modification process. It's your choice! The pegs are fastened on with Phillips head screws.







The best tape is 3M Scotch 233+ Green tape



3M Scotch Green 233+ masking tape is used by Automotive Paint Professionals. It's highly conformable to curved surfaces on both metal and plastic. It has good adhesion in a large range of weather conditions. It will peel off without leaving any sticky residue. Most Auto Body Supply Stores should be stocking this tape. It's also readily available online. 3M Scotch *233+ tape has a premium price compared to other tapes, but it performs the best*











The 900D front plate is made from Anodized Black aluminum. We're going to retain this factory finish.







Use Measuring Square or Ruler, to measure out 1" framed border around the Corsair's 900D plate







Put on your Safety Glasses, before using any Power Tools.



Using Rotary Tool with 1.5" Cutting Wheel, to make four incision cuts on each of the four sides. This step is necessary, before you can use the Jigsaw to remove the center.







Using Jigsaw with 18 TPI bi-metal cutting blade to remove the center of the plate you measured out.







The center section of the plate has been cut.







Using Hand File to fix and clean the jagged edges of the cut out. You'll want to remove the masking tape, so you can better view your progress with the file.



Modder's Mesh, Round,http://ift.tt/1tn8sJQ







I'm attaching Round Modder's Mesh[/b] to the backside of the front plate.







Measure out piece of Round Modder's Mesh to 15" LONG by 7.25" WIDE.







Use Tin Snip or Metal Cutting Shear to cut the Round Modder's Mesh







Attach the Round Modder's Mesh to backside of the front plate with Spring Loaded clamps. You can also use small C-clamps.







Apply Painter's Tape around the edge of the mesh on back on front side of the plate. This is to help prevent any ScotchWeld DP-190 epoxy from running off the Modders Mesh onto the plate.



[img=http://ift.tt/1pANHDX]



I'll be using ScotchWeld DP-190[/font]
[font='Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]for*[/font]attaching the [b]Round Modder's Mesh to backside of the plate.



You'll need to wear Latex gloves, when using the ScotchWeld DP-190.*You can manually push the two cylinders of Epoxy in DP-190 Cartridge onto a piece of cardboard. Then mix the two epoxies together with a long wood nail or pop-rivet.*Otherwise*3M sells a [b]ScotchWeld Applicator Gun, for $70.00 with spiral mixing tip, for ScotchWeld







Wearing latex glove, use your finger to evenly smear the ScotchWeld DP-190 epoxy into the perforations of the Round Modder's Mesh







Use a cloth or rag, to wipe off any epoxy run-off from the sides of the plate







Wear filtered Respirator Mesh before applying any paint.



Apply paint in well ventilated area, preferably outdoors with temperature around 72F



I'm painting the backside of the mesh first, starting with coat of SEM brand self etching primer. Allow it to cure for one hour before applying Krylon "Rust Tough" "Semi-Flat" Black *paint. Allow "Rust Tough" to cure for 24 hours.







Mask off the front frame, and repeat same steps for painting the front of the plate.







After 24 hours, remove the tape.







Close up of the bezel plate.







Step back and admire your work!



You can use this technique to attach Modder's Mesh to create cooling vents in other panels.



Please share any questions or comments!




Getting back to "raw" drive

I was recently trying to add a SSD drive to my grandson's computer, trying to clone the existing hard drive to this new SSD drive. The system recognized the drive, I started the Toolbox and selected the Clone option. It displayed the partitions on the old physical drive and seemed like it should clone to the new drive with no problems. Over 3 hours later, this was only at around 23% done, which this is a new install of Windows 8.1 on his system, just bare bones so I didn't think it should have taken this long. Very slow. Doing some research, I found that there was a setting I should have set in BIOS, AHCI (?) so I stopped the cloning, set this in BIOS, and then rebooted the computer thinking it would allow me to start over. It does not, saying my drive was not clean or un-used so I could not start over. Hopefully a simple question, how do I get this drive to go back to a "raw" condition? I had seen a utility to wipe the drive but I thought that might just be for data only and I just did not want to mess this up worse than it already was. One other question, should it have taken this long or did not having the correct setting cause it to take this long? Maybe I just should have been more patient. This was my first attempt to use an SSD drive and sometimes us old techs just don't get it right the first time.



Thank you.




Corsair Raptor M30 mouse - weird issue with rubber coating on left mouse button

I bought this mouse two weeks ago, started using it July 16th.

After approximately 2 days of usage I noticed a weird feeling under my pointer finger. I checked the mouse and discovered it had started to "grow" a web of air passages or something like that under the rubberized coating of the left mouse button.

The attached image shows them quite clearly. Ignore the sweat stains, it is extremely hot where I live, heat record of the last century iirc, and it's even going to get hotter... :flamethrower:



The question is - is this permanent or maybe it will go away when it gets cooler again? Should I send it to warranty service?

And also, has anyone else experienced this with their mice? If yes, what did you do?




Attached Images





File Type: jpg DSC_0002.JPG (708.9 KB)






Accidental Macro Set - K95

Ive had the K95 for a long time, and mostly bought it for it's look and built quality. The switches, and whatever else.



I did not however buy it for the macros, and never bothered to use them. Recently, I was taking keys from the board for a general cleaning with air duster and the like, but at some point during it I must have pressed the MR button, and assigned macros to one of the keys.



After doing so, I realized it would rapidly switch between Ctrl, Alt, Windows Key, Down and Left Arrow, and Shift / Enter. This is causing me a nightmare of problems, and need to know how to forcibly reset the macro bindings for the K95. I know it works fine on another computer, as I origionally thought it may have been a hardware issue.



Is there a certain directory on my computer that my K95 physically stores the Macro settings, and if so, where exactly does it save said settings?



Thanks for the help before hand.




H100i update to FW: 1.0.7?

Greetings..!



I have just build a sexy new corsair build with the H100i, and SP120PWM fans. :p: Anyway..! I have been having some issues with the commander not detecting the unit - but after changing the USB-keyboard to another port it finally detects the link - very strange? So now that the commander finally detects the link, it asks if I want to update to 1.0.7. I've seen quite a few posts on this forum, where people are told not to update to the latest firmware? So that has left me confused as to whether I should update the firmware - or not. :confused:



So that has left me to ask you guys for advice, so I don't end up bricking my H100i :roll:




Defekte CSSD-F120GB3-BK ?

Hallo.



Ich bin seit heute neu hier im Forum und wollte direkt mal was Posten da der deutsche Support ja anscheinend gut ist :)



Folgendes Problem, habe mir im Dez. 2011 eine SSD bei Amazon gekauft, damals direkt Windows Installiert etc. alles Wunderbar.

Gestern wollte ich meinen PC Starten und es kam die Fehlermeldung von wegen das die Winload.exe fehlen würde. Stundenlange Googlesuche brachte nicht die Lösung.



Wollte die Festplatte auch nicht unbedingt Formatieren (was sowieso nicht geht -.-)



Die SSD wird beim Hochfahren, im Bios & in einem Externen USB Gehäuse nicht erkannt. Ich gehe mal davon aus das die Platte hin ist.



Habe nichts gemacht oder verändert, ganz normal mein Spiel wie jeden Tag auf dem Rechner gespielt. Abends Rechner aus und Nachmittags wieder an und es ging nichts mehr.



Laut Corsair habe ich 36 Monate Gewährleistung bzw. Garantie ist dies richtig ?



Habe auch schon ein RMA Eröffnet und hoffe das es was bringt.





Part Number: CSSD-F120GB3-BK

Seriennummer ?! : 1149111***********

Ticketnummer: 6500103





Grüße




H80i non reconnu par carte mère

Bonjour à tous,



Je viens de remplacer mon système watercooling par un corsair H80i .Je viens de faire la maj de corsair link et windows ne reconnais toujours pas mon péripherique "unknown device" j'ai un code erreur 43 .J'ai changé le port usb sur ma carte mère sans résultat .Je possède la dernière maj du bios .Merci de votre aide .




lundi 28 juillet 2014

H100i FAN NOISE

Hello guys,



A fan of my H100i is making a noise that did not find normal (in the video is background noise, like a "pick pick pick"). Have turned off the fans and it is not checked a noise from the pump. From what I noticed, the noise comes from the FAN closest to the hoses. Is there a problem? Should I request a replacement?













H80i, Owned for Over a Year | Fans 100%

When I built my computer, and decided I was going to get the H80i water cooler for the known power hog, FX 8320, I suppose I was so stoked about getting the water cooler that I didn't realize how god damn loud it is when running at 100%



I've never had luck with Win8 and Corsair Link. From the beginning, controlling the cooler was absolutely impossible but the sound of the computer didn't bother me whatsoever.



Fast forward to now, and I'm not sure what sparked my interest on the fans, but I decided to find a fix for the fan speed. The fix, which was simply running CL in Compatibility Mode (Win7) and as Admin, allowed me switch the fans up. I decided on "Quiet Mode" and HOLY ****!!!



You have no idea how quiet my room is now that I'm not having to hear the constant hum whilst surfing the net, or watching YouTube videos. God damn...




New Graphite 380T

Corsair....



You made the new 380T in yellow!

RM series power supplies in yellow.

Will you be making a cable kit in yellow??

And, I see mounting holes in the front of the 380T for a "VERY LARGE FAN"...

Will you be making one of those also?? (with yellow LED's):idea:



Can you see where my next build is going??? :biggrin:




K70 LED won't switch off after PC is shutdown

Hi guys,



Just wondering if anyone has encountered a problem like this. I noticed last night after I shutdown my computer that the following lights won't go off.



So far it's only the media control keys, mute button and the LED brightness control button.



I have tried changing the USB ports it is connected to on my PC as well as swapping out the keyboard to another computer but it's still the same.



Any ideas?







Fan Bearing Gone Bad, Warranty?

I have a TX750W that I purchased from Newegg on 2/14/2011 about 3 1/2 years ago. Now the power supply comes with a 5 year warranty. Recently it sounds like the bearings in the fan have failed and now its making a LOT of noise. Will my warranty cover a new fan?



If not how hard is it to replace said fan... it is just an awful sound and I need a solution ASAP!

Thanks!!!




Adding Memory to Acer Aspire

Hello. I would like to add RAM memory to my Acer Aspire 7741Z 4643 laptop. I have DDR3 1066 with 4 slots. Two slots are now used, with 1 G in first, 2 GB in second slot. How can I get 8 GB total? Can I use what I have, and add? Or do I have to get all new?




Corsair Vengeance 2100 usb dongle replacement

Is there anywhere to buy these or get a replacement? I tried contacting Corsair support and putting in a ticket but they want the receipt, which I no longer have.



I actually just got this headset, brand new, and I can't use it? Surely there has to be a way to use and get a replacement USB dongle?



Thanks




help me understand this

I've a AX200i, I want to know what the meaning behind Power In and Power Out



I'm guessing Power In is the power is the PSU is drawing from the wall while the Power Out is what's going out into my system



Am i correct?




Corsair 1200i

Hello guys

The power supply can draw 4 WAY SLI GTX TITAN BLACK ?




Weird behaviour of H100i while CPU is tested with P95

Hi there,

I noticed a weird behaviour of my H100i while the CPU is tested using Prime95.



Information about my system:

CPU: AMD FX6300 (undervolted in BIOS from 1.2875V to 1.2675V, but HWInfo64 and CoreTemp still show 1.2875V, not overclocked)

Cooler: Stock H100i with stock fans (connected via Y-cable to cooler + two front fans of my Corsair 750D connected to the other port via second Y-cable)

Firmware of H100i: v1.0.7



While in idle, CorsairLINK says that my CPU temps are about 35C.

As soon as I start P95 temperatures in CLINK drop instantly for about 10C to 25C in this case and slowly rise over time.

If I stop P95 the opposite happens and temperatures in CLINK instantly rise for about 10C.



If I compare temperatures of CLINK to CoreTemp and HWInfo without P95 then CLINK is about the same as the temperatures shown in my BIOS. CoreTemp and HWInfo show about 10C cooler temperatures.

But as soon as P95 kicks in all three softwares show the same temperatures.



I really dont know what the cause of this might be so I ask you.

Any ideas what the cause of this behaviour could be or what I could do?




RM-750 SATA cables

Hi all,

I need to add a few more drives to my system, and I can't find the extra SATA power supply cables that came with the PSU. Am I correct in assuming that CP-8920113 is the correct part number for these cables? If so, they seem to be out of stock everywhere and the Corsair website doesn't appear to sell them directly.



Any idea if there's a different part number I can use or if these are available aftermarket?



Thanks.




AX1500i Current

On the ax1500i pages it says Current: 15A , does this mean it takes 15 Amps all the time or only when on maximum load?




12 Angry Men 900 D Case

Again another 900D Case to build, and play…



I used:



Case Corsair 900 d

MB Asus Maximus 6 Formula

CPU 4770K

CPU WB Koolance CPU-380I Water Block

Video MSI GTX 680 Lightning

RAM G Skill Trident 2400 MHz 2X8 GB

SSD OCZ Vortex4 512 GB

Sound C. SB Recon 3D Fatality Pro

PSU Seasonic 850 80+Gold

Pump Swiftech 655 + Bitspower TOP + Bitspower Mod kit

Rad Alphacool UT 60 480

Fittings XSPC G1/4" to 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - Chrome Finish

Tubing PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing - 1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD - Crystal Clear

Fluid PrimoChill Liquid Utopia Fluid Dye Pack - Blood Red

Keyboard Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2012

Mouse Razer Mamba



First, we used Asus Cross Chill cooler for watercooling MB.

But it is made from alu. to prevent the corrosion we shall change it with an EK WB



We provide the heat of liquid to stay stable at degree that we want by relating the inline sensor with aerocool fan controler alarm.



Avaible MSI videocard, is used with air cooling for now.(a Evga 780 is coming soon)



RGB led is used to find the light and colour that is wanted in the case.Unfortunately ,it was not my idea...



The photos are trial photos which are taken for this purpose.



although CORSAIR 900D is a big case, but the same mistakes appear again... liike this…



http://ift.tt/1AaN8ZZ



That there is no middle plate at the case.



When 480th radiator is installed to the front of sub-part, there is not enogh space left , except 60mm radiator+25mm fan.(photographed)



It is impossible to mount a radiator and fan together in this place.



Even if a thin radiator is used, there is no place left to work and joining between radiators.



There is no free place for pumps , you must remove HDD cages.





I hope Corsair 900D V1 is coming soon…





We are planning to change Asus MB Waterblock with an EK , to prevent the corrosion becouse it is from alu.



And make a middle plate for next threads.(done)









Add an EVGA 780



And an Alphacool UT60 480 Rad.



here some photos









































[IMG]http://ift.tt/1q9VZnW

[IMG]http:











[IMG]http

[IMG]http













OTHER WORKLOGS

MMT 900 D Case

http://ift.tt/1AaN8ZZ



ER36PO Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow Edition Case

http://ift.tt/1q9W2A9